Project VELAIA

On the VELo cycling for and around gAIA


Archive for the 'China' Category

Happy new year!

Update: Look at half the way to Adelaide on Google Maps.

Browsing my “images that are not in a set” on flickr I found some of the panoramas I had taken but thought to be lost. So as a present for the new year and an excuse for not being on the road but rather still hanging around at Alfred’s and Isa’s place at the Gold Coast here they come (my favorite first):

ViewDistantHimalayans

Blue Tibet Lake on 4000m+

Tielongtan truck stop in Aksai Chin

The reason why I am still at the Gold Coast is that the problems with the joints on the big toes didn’t get better. So I went to a specialist for sports injuries and afterwards to a regular doctor. Diagnose: gout. Now that I got some tablets and know that what I shouldn’t eat to avoid too much uric acid in my blood (mostly meat, but also peas and lentils of which I had clearly too much during the last 1.5 weeks) I am ready to go. I’ll leave the coast into the direction of Tennant Creek. From there I’ll cycle down to Adelaide, altogether about 4500km.

Grey mountain near XaiDulla

Red Rocks Provance

Wonderful green Turkish valley

Nice Provance outlook

(Move the mouse over the picture and you’ll see where it was taken)

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Bald verlasse ich Beijing!

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I have put some videos from my mobile and camera on my YouTube Account, have a look. Today I will have sent my bicycle back to Germany. Here I want to thank some people who have helped me a lot with logistics: my neighbour and logistics manager Norbert, who also found a sponsor (KĂĽhne und Nagel) for transporting my bicycles, my father and second logistics manager Elmar for arranging so many things in such a short time and my sister Verena for packing and catching up the bike! You are great and without you I would have to walk through Australia :-)

Yesterday evening I met Sebastien again and two other French touring cyclists who are around right now. Together with some really funny CouchSurfers we had a great and entertaining evening!

CouchSurfing and touring cyclists meeting, Beijing

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)23.11.2007): BEIJING, ich hab’s geschafft!

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Yes, yes, yes! I have arrived in Beijing after a bit more than 200 days and nearly 20.000km. Yesterday at 1pm local time Sebastien and me took our pictures in front of the famous Mao picture at the Tiananmen square!

I am in the process of putting the latest pictures online right now and will extend this posting during the next few hours.

Update:

After the night in the police station I had two more passes over 3000m to climb, one being about 3600m, the other 3800m high. But I wasn’t so lucky concerning the accomodation any more - no, I was even thrown out once in the middle of the night because I didn’t want to pay 5 times the normal price (which I had been told by locals before).

But as a compensation for that I could ride a few more days along the beautiful mountain scenery of the Tibetan plateau to always to my right.

Yaks with Qmghai Hu (lake) in the background

It was here that I saw some of the last yaks in China: at the Qinghai lake. And on the way down to the lake I nearly crashed into a queue of waiting trucks - what was the reason for the queue? One crane truck helping his brother to get on the road again :-)

yellow crane helping another yellow crane to get on the street again

And even here, more than 1500km away from Lhasa I found some Tibetan pilgrims again doing their up and down gymnastics all day long.

pilgrims on their way to Lhasa - still more than 1200km to do!pilgrims on their way to Lhasa - still more than 1200km to do!

After a small town the LANXI EXPRWY started to bring me in a long long downhill into the city of Xining which I crossed in nearly no time on a nearly totally empty highway just to spend the night under a bridge outside because I couldn’t escape the highway any more :-( All along the Chinese expressways there are these fences made of barbwire and therefore they seem like a prison for cyclists: if you are inside you can’t escape and if you are sick of the continuous up and down on the G110 you can’t get on the highway.

that's the way to the expressway :-)dinner for one in autumn China

But sometimes there are holes in the fence or you manage to go through a toll gate without being stopped.

The G110 together with this expressway went through a sometimes very narrow but also very populated valley and at other times through very rural places with the smell of cabbage being omnipresent.

chinese composting - you can smell it everywhere

 

Just before the metropolis Lanzhou I turned north and went through less crowded areas through the cities of Jingtai, Zhongwei to Yinchuan.

chief of the apples!

(MY apples!)

Often I found quite funny English slogans which made the sometimes quite uninteresting (flat, smoggy, straight) days and the “always the same” conversations with locals a bit more diverse:

FAMOUS BRAND    HIGH QUALITY!!!

Funny English slogans eveywhere in China Future Cola - Future will be better!

When cycling on the highway I got stopped up to 3 times a day by (traffic) police and I had to explain them that my life was much more in danger on the countryside road than on the highway with 3 lanes and nearly no traffic at all - I showed them photos I had taken of workers cycling on the highway and played ferocious dogs and after a few minutes they nearly always let me go.

lonely street workers cycling on the M5 expresswaytransporter with part of wind turbine

As the days were getting shorter and shorter and the temperatures fell down I sometimes didn’t manage to do more than 80 to 90 km and was quite frustrated in the evenings.

Additionally I was running out of Yuan and for 3 days I tried without success to get either A) Dollars changed to Yuan (RMB) or B) Yuan from an ATM. 20 Banks couldn’t help me and I found myself in a pretty bad situation as a Chinese man working for a Spanish wind turbine company helped me out by changing 40$ to 300 Yuan - enough to get to a ATM that worked for me or even to Beijing.

frustrated in Inner Mongolia - no Yuan left

But there was still the pain in my heels! The first two hours in the morning were filled with pain and even in the nights I often felt pain in my feet. I had to do something! Between the horny skin that had been built blood came out of the skin and so I decided to make two cuts on every shoe - and suddenly the riding was painfree! I could enjoy cycling and the more and more hilly landscape again. Two minutes, four cuts, so easy, so painfree!

that hurts! horny skin on my heels solution to pain at the heels: cutting the shoes :-)

beautiful mountains on the way to Beijing

Now the only problem were the low temperatures which cost a lot of energy and often I was exhausted like a TdF cyclist in the evenings.

One evening I had only 150 Yuan left - not too bad but also not a amount where you could pay a hotel room for 128 Yuan. So I told them my problem in about half an hour (as they couldn’t understand English) and after another 30 minutes the price was down at 30 Yuan! But then a friend of the owner of the hotel came and said “Chinese are friendly people - you can stay in this hotel for free, for free! And we even invite you for dinner because Chinese are friendly people!” OK, I thought - he was already a bit drunken I guess, but it would have helped to meet some more of these extremely friendly people a few days before when I had no Yuan left - what does it help that they are friendly if I can’t survive?!

Chinese dinnerdinner with drunken Chinese

So I went to dinner and made an experience that changed my picture of Chinese people quite a lot as they were drinking and smoking without end. But friendly they were and we had a big dinner together.

And the next morning something totally unexpected and very unlikely happened: I met Sebastien again, the French cyclist who I’d been cycling with when entering China for 2 days until arrival in Kasghar.

Sebastien from Lyonhappy to arrive in Beijing soon

We decided to arrive together in Beijing on Friday. There were quite some hills to do now, we saw some parts of the Chinese wall and came through a big coal area where they were sorting the coal depending on the size. Everything was black here: The street, the trees, the cars and sometimes even the people!

no privacy in China

truck traffic jam (TTJ) - in the night they are allowed to enter Beijing area passing a coal region

We experienced the privacy understanding of some Chinese when going to toilet, we went along a 5km traffic jam consisting only of trucks (3 lanes) and got a hotel room that looked more like a washing room just the evening before Beijing. The restaurant we went to served me rice with egg when I showed them that I want rice, egg, potatoes and tofu - what a meal. I was lucky to have some tofu from a nearby supermarket in a plastic bag with me :-)
And then we woke up and it was the final day, the day of the arrival in Beijing, the finish of our journey. Both of us had started in April and now, 7 months later we should end this tour which sometimes seemed to last forever - what a strange mood we’ve been in at this morning. But we still had at least 70 to 80km to do and we didn’t know too much about the terrain in front of us.

But it was easier than expected as parts of the G110 had just been rebuild and were still closed for the general traffic. We went through many new built tunnels on a 3 laned road, raced over bridges at 60 to 70km/h and within half an hour we found ourselves 400m further down.

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recumbent cyclist and workers in a tunnel

in the final downhill to BeijingSebastien in front of early morning mountain panorama

As we arrived even before noon at the border of the city the decision to go directly into the center was quite easy. So after another hour we took some pictures in front of the forbidden city, in front of the Olympia 2008 countdown clock but we were not allowed to enter the Tiananmen square. So we just went around that one.

in front of the olympic count down clock on Tiananmen squareTiananmen square in Beijing

As the previous 24/7 McDonald’s was somehow closed (China!) we were still hungry, so we went to a restaurant together before we visited the French friends of Sebastien.

In the evening I left them to get to Marcus Grahl, a member of the de-hpv recumbent mailinglist who had invited me to stay at his appartment already before I had left home :-)

dsc03725.jpg recumbent after nearly 20.000km of touring at the finish in Beijing

Yesterday evening I somehow managed to get a cold and so I try to step back and relax a bit during the 3 days that I have left in Beijing. I hope that I will be able to see the Forbidden City while I am here. I already have a kind of visa for Australia and the ticket for a flight on November 28.

All the best from a relieved touring cyclist in Beijing,


Daniel

BTW: The picture at the end of the article has been taken in Iran. It shows where I’ll go next :-)

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(22.11.2007): 70km bis Beijing.

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I’ve nearly made it!! Since 2 days I am cycling with Sebastien from Lyon again, the guy who I’ve been cycling with in the very west of China, just after entering. He will end his journey in Beijing and we are both very happy and looking forward to the arrival some time tomorrow. In  the next days I will write about my one month sprint since Lhasa bringing me the last 4000km to the capital. Till then, all the best from China!

 A happy recumbent cyclist from China :-)

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Nahe Lanzhou.

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Hi, I’ve just passed Lanzhou and am going for Inner Mongolia now. The last two days brought 180km each day and I hope to continue at that speed to Beijing. Till then, Daniel.

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Tag 193 (04.11.2007): Golmud verlassen und verhaftet :-)

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After last nights long internet session (until 2am) I got up at 8:30, went on the internet again for another 1.5 hours, had another warm shower and left the city at 11am as fast as possible to get some km (the estimated average to reach Beijing on 20th of November is about 160-170km/day).

DSC03539  DSC03540

 (German boxing on Chinese TV, me eating instant noodles ;-)

All day long I cycled in the flat, sometimes a bit up, another time a bit down and all the time sun - a day for dreaming. To my right I could always see the brown and rocky mountains.

DSC03544DSC03549

 

Then in the evening I was looking for a place to sleep as a police man called me to him and offered me to sleep in the police station - a quite secure place I thought and soon I was sitting around a table with 7 Chinese police men, telling them stories and testing their English (one understood English quite well - probably due to the “U.S. Army” pullover he wore :-)

DSC03541DSC03542

BTW: Waiting for your comments, now in Dulan :-)

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