Project VELAIA

On the VELo cycling for and around gAIA


Archive for the 'Turkey' Category

Tag 71 – 74 (05.-08.07.2007): Durch wunderschöne Täler und Hochebenen nach Erzurum

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The morning was quite cool so I got on the bike and moving as fast as I might. The road was now constantly above 1000 meters and I even had a pass of 2160 meters (Sakaltutan Gec,idi). The valley was surrounded by 2000+ meter mountains and from the pass I could even see some of the peaks still covered by snow fields.

highland on 2000 meters in Turkeysnow covered peaks at the horizon

 

In the noon I use to take off 2 or 3 hours when there is no wind or when I have to go uphill slowly because it can get 40+ degress Celsius. The time is usually spent with reading (”Portrait of a Turkish family by Irfan Ora right now), eating, chilling and eating.

Then I normally ride into the evening or sometimes even night. The first night I cycled until 10:30pm and came through a place where they were mining for something and therefore the whole valley was invisible in a cloud of dust and the traffic going slow at 5 to 10km/h as you could barely see the next vehicle in front of you.

The night was spent 1000 meters higher than the night before about 70 km before Erzincan again under a brillant star sky.

The temperatures during the night got down so that I had to hull myself deeply int the sleeping bag which was made for down to -29 degrees Cel. (extreme temperature).

In the morning I had to get on the bike to get warm and the pass I had to take was perfect for that.

2160 meter Sakaltutan pass

After the downhill I stayed at a fuel station near Erzincan where I could shortly check e-mails and where I spoted a hiker passing by. I ate a bit more and then stared to see who this guy walking along the E80 road was. It turned out that I had finally found Samuel, a guy walking from Barcelona to Nepal for a year already now and who I have heard from when I stayed at Nasta’s flat in Thessaloniki. He also stayed in Istanbul with Isa, the host I stayed with, for about a month!

 information exchange with Samuel in Erzincanmet Samuel from samu.cat

We spent the noon, afternoon and evening exchanging information about gear, technical stuff, experiences and walking and riding together into Erzincan. He has a website under www.samu.cat

I wish him a good journey and many more experiences on his spiritual trip to Nepal.

beautiful evening scenery short after Erzincan  beautiful evening scenery short after Erzincan

I then continued to Erzurum, riding through the night and through beautiful valleys which were first completely dark and I was only able to see the sillhouette of the rocky mountains against the starlite sky and which were later lighted by the moonlight. The reason for continuing through the night was that I knew from my LonelyPlanet guide that the Iran Consulate in Erzurum had opened on Saturdays and so I was hoping to get the visa and not have to rest a single day. But when I arrived in Erzurum in the morning first thing i got hit by a bee into my right foot/leg area :-(

When I came to the Consulate then they wanted me to provide a reference number from the visa section of the Consulate in Istanbul, which I didn’t have and couldn’t get because the guy on the phone from the Istanbul Consulate said that he couldn’t give me the number and got angry quite fast telling me I had to call on Monday again.

hotel roomAll I must eat Turkey version

So I left the consulate and found a quite pricy hotel where I can recover from the meeting with the bee and the monster stage of 283km and over 2100 meters in altitude. I also want to finish with one or two books for they are so heavy riding up the mountains.

first rain I see in Turkey, Erzurum on 1850mErzurum view from hotel

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69. & 70. Tag (03. & 04.07.2007): Nach Amsya und auf die E80 in Richtung Erzurum.

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When I am thinking about the last two days I see this long way to Erzurum in front of me. The scenery is still a beautiful green valley with high mountains to the left and right but it is a bit more crowded ’cause it seems to be the main connection in the north to IRAN and the east of

Turkey.

 baby ducksmany watering channels

There are many fruit sellers next to the street and you can get really tasty and cheap energy there. I spent one night in a little fruit seller chimney where there was a bank I could sleep on.

I have been informed by a fruit seller that he has hosted a cyclist from Allemanya called Christopher just a day before - but the communication was a bit hard so it could have been a week, month, year or even a lifetime before :-) But alone the possibility to cycle with another German or English speaking cyclist for a few kilometers motivated me quite a bit so I made some more kilometers the second day.On the same day I have been stopped by the police (POLIS) twice - not for passport checking but for checking, tea and photos ;-) - they are a lot more polite here than in the western part as it seems to me. At the second check point (a police station) I even got some minutes internet access and some peaches.

 DSC01600meeting the Turkish police

In a restaurant next to the street I had a quite cheap vegetarian meal of Pide with the usual Turkish salad (gurks, tomatoes and normal green salad) and took the chance of remembering that the brakes had made some strange sounds to change the Magura brake pads the first time after over 7000km - only the ones of the front disc brake because I am using it in 97% of the cases I have to break. So I have to say again that I am really happy about the equipment and bike!

brake pad change after 7200km (Magura Louise 2001 front disc brake)

The place for the night is booked next to the river under a beautiful clear sky with uncountable stars and the sound of the fast flowing river in the background completing the atmosphere and reminding me to the cycling trip in Norway in 2005 (only difference being that it would have been still light in the north).290km with 2500 hight meters in 2 days (average of 18,4km/h)

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68. Tag (02.07.2007): Schoene Taeler muenden in “Fjord”

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I woke up early in the morning and expected today’s track to be quite flat. But there were always a few hills that slowed me down and the wind was most of the time blowing from the front. But the scenery was simply stunning. It started with a beautiful valley with a green stripe in the center where rice was planetd and this was surrounded by beautiful rocky mountains in brown and brown-green.

beautiful valley storck

At a fuel station I was served Turkish tea and got some food. Later I stumbled upon a automobile corso of several hundred cars which were participating in a rallye for a party - seems there will be elections very soon here in Turkey.

political party convoy 

The river turned into a big lake with a beautiful road attached to the side. I got the chance to pick up two turtles from the street and put them some meters away - one was actually hit by a car but seemed to be ok.

 Turkish turtle English teacher (3rd from the right)

In the evening I saw a even stranger animal walking over the street (see picture).

DSC01596 


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64-67. Tag (28.06 - 01.07.2007): Bartun bis Kastamonu.

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 On my journey I followed the Turkish Black Sea coast for another 4 days. I had forgotten my GPS receiver in Bartun and after 2 small mountain passes I recognized it. I did not want to go back due to stomach aches and extreme heat. I was happy that the Turks are that ambitioned bus drivers and found a opportunity to get back immediately. I got the receiver and hitchhiked back - the people were very polite!

trying out differnt styles of transportation DSC01521

The next morning I got on the internet cafe and wanted to update the website and upload photos. But in the middle of the session there was a power outage and I even had to wait to get my CD out of the drive.

ATATÃ?RK EVERYWHERE FOR EVER ;-) Turkish Market Kurucas,ile

So on I went along the beautiful hilly coast. In the evening I met a Turk who has been working in Germany for 30 years and is now enjoying his life’s evening in is patria. He gave me a Coke and we had a short chat before I took the next uphill.

Cide, Black Sea coast Tukey chilling dog

I slept near a house from another guy who came from Germany back to Turkey and now lives with 20 dogs and cats. Then I met this guy with his girlfriend who I met a week before.

bodyguard dogs meeting an   

In Inebolu I decided to leave the hilly coastline and go inside the country.

I enjoyed the long uphills which brought me on over 1200 meters where the air was fresh and it wasn’t as hot any more! In the evening I made it to Kastamonu and a bit further.

last view on the Black Sea old houses on Turkish highland

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63. Tag (27.06.2007): Zonguldak nach Bartun.

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I wanted to take today off because I got bad stomach aches yesterday in the afternoon and stopped then to strenghten my body again. But when I woke up in the morning after a hard night lying on a hill (not flat) I was strong in my legs and decided to risk it. 10km out of Zonguldak I found a fuel station and the guys there let me call the Consulate of the Islamic Republic of IRAN in Istanbul to check for the status of my visa application. I was happy to hear that I could pick it up in Erzurum when I will arrive there. The man on the phone told me to just phone him again when I have arrived in Erzurum - I estimated my arrivel there in 7 days - quite optimistic in my eyes but possible :-)

Updated gear list The valley out of Zonguldak was a dream as was the downhill that followed - I interrupted it for a noon brake in an internet cafe where I updated the gear list (check it!).

Turkish afternoon - see a female? 

The way to Bartin was flat and in the evening I got on the internet again. I uploaded the picture of the gear list and a short video snippet that you can view in a post earlier. I also applied for being a Nomadic Ambassador of the CouchSurfing project (check www.couchsurfing.com) because I am really fascinated by it and I want to bring it to the people.

Now I am staying at a football club’s area where I have been served Turkish tee and had some conversation with a guy who spoke some English. They showed me a place BEHIND the really beautifully equipped club rooms where I can sleep (outside).

tea at a football club football game

I didn’t accept that offer because there were now about 30 football players who knew that I am sleeping there and another block of high houses with flats who could easily see me because the place was illuminted - the risk of unwanted visitors at night was too high and therefore I cycled for another 8 kilometers where I found a suitable spot.

beautiful spot for a night - experimenting with the camera 

BTW: In a short match with a Turkish football player of my age Alleman won! ;-)

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Chillout Video Black Sea Coast

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For a short time I will provide a small video of a recumbent ride along the Black Sea coast in northern Turkey. So DOWNLOAD IT NOW before it is too late :-)

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