Project VELAIA

On the VELo cycling for and around gAIA


Tag 75-78 (09-12.07.2007): Ueber die tuerkisch-iranische Grenze.

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WOW, after 3 phone calls to Istanbul, always running between the Iranian consulate and a market where I could phone from (for a inhumane price for inland calls!) the employees of the Istanbul embassy finally sent the needed information to Erzurum. Here I used the time to learn some basics of Farsi, one of the languages spoken in Iran with a big simmilarity to the Turkish. A young employee of the embassy, Hatemi, helped me with the pronounciation and the time went by faster that way. I also met a Ialian cyclist who also got a 30 day visa for Iran but with fixed entry date.

Italien cyclist and me in the Iranian consulate Erzurum 

After getting the visa I got some money with the VISA card knowing that this will be very difficult to impossible in Iran. I left Erzurum in the early afternoon.In the evening I met two Germans from Dresden who were on their way to the Ararat mountain as a part of a 2 weeks vacation with their car.I didn’t want to stay at the much visited restaurant for the night and chose a safe place next to the street a few kilometers further into the direction of Beijing :-) The next day had the highest pass of the tour so far (2290 or 2315 or something in that area meters high, depending on which source you trust) and brought me to Agri where I withdrew money again in the evening because in Erzurum I could get only about 700 Lira.

I continued through the night and found a guy in a fuel station who had quite fast internet and was video conferencing with his girlfriend in Istanbul - me interrupting we had some fun nontheless and I was able to check mails and stay up to date.

The road was in a building phase for about 20km with big pitholes and stones and dust everywhere. I used the chance of low traffic and cool temperatures to bring that part behind me during the night.

Later I stopped next to a Jandarma area, a part of the Turkish military, with the intension to get a place to sleep there. But the young soldiers where so afraid of this lonely cyclist of the night that they only gave me water at the same time having their automatic rifles in their hands and waving with the same ones to keep me in distance - the military presence everywhere is one of the things I disliked most about Turkey.

A German and Turkish soldier 2290 meter pass in eastern Turkey

Then finally the day came when I was to set my foot to Iranian ground. But first I had another 90 kilometers with a overwhelming view on the Ararat mountain, the highest of Turkey with over 5000 meters (if I remember correct). Riding along the good quality street I had a last bad experience in Turkey when a small shepherd-boy threw a big stone that hit my bike - I also had a stone in my bag but that was destined for angry dogs and not for small children. So I just took a photo from the stone thrower and put it on my flickr account :-P

 stone thrower 

 I uploaded all my pictures to the internet knowing about the bad connectivity to come.

Iranian border welcome 

In the evening I arrived at the border and everything went fine. I was officially welcomed by a special representative (for tourists) and given a map and some information. I also changed 200 euro to Rial (about quarter a kilo of notes or 2.5 million :-)

Iranians love redundancy :-P tent in Maku bread in the oven (about 9 Euro cent for one piece)

Continuing for another 20 km I was welcomed very very warmly by the people standing next to the street, had an interesting conversation with a student and tour guide and was picked up in the evening by Ali in Maku to spend the night in his flat - man, that is what I call Iranian n hospitality!

Warm English speaking welcome 2km after the border crossing My host in Maku, Ali

The second day in Iran continued in the same way the first ended - all people greeting me, smiling and sometimes when you are riding in the countryside you can hear hellos and salams from farmers hundreds of meters away from the street, you turn around and see them waving their hands.

In two markets the sales clerks wanted to cheat me by adding another 0 to the price for fruits but I didn’t pay knowing from Ali and locals and my LonelyPlanet guide the fair price.

Taxi driver on recumbent prestate to butterfly - intense green

In the evening I stopped in a small village and was immediately surrounded by hords of locals, mainly children with big interested eyes. A young man immediately took care for my bike and protected it from the many curious children. When I came out of the market with a bottle of juice and some fruits after 2 minutes the whole village stood in front of me and my bike very interested about these strange looking guests.

sunset on the way to Teheran Hosts for the second night

Now I have again easily found a room to stay for the night in a restaurant next to the street to Tabriz and had a long conversation with an English speaking law student.

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3 Responses to “Tag 75-78 (09-12.07.2007): Ueber die tuerkisch-iranische Grenze.”


  1. 1 Timmy

    Hi,

    I love your diary and read it everytime there is something new. This is really inspiring! I hope you will be lucky in those countries which are known to be quite dangerous.

    Greets, Timmy from Munich, Germany
    (yes, I could have wrote that in german as well, but i like the international touch this way :-))

  2. 2 Daniel N. Lang

    Hey Timmy, thanks for your comment - it is important for me to know that my mission to promote carfree living and especially cycling is successful :-)

  3. 3 Mathis

    Yes, you are motivating!!!

    Keeeeeep going!!!! ;-)

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