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Cycling alongside Lago Titicaca

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  • german

We were not in partying mood when we had arrived at the Titicaca lake. No sleep for days and always taking care for the equipment that lay in the bus luggage compartment unprotected. The landscape had changed a lot: The green had gone, the steep mountains had gone. Only hills left; the brown landscape and the blue sky. Altiplano now, 3800 m altitude,  almost unrecognizable. The highest peak in Germany, we would be on the top now but here felt almost like riding along a coast.

First we had to ride along the Lago Grande northern part of the lake, later on along the Lago Pequeño which together form this 190 km long lake on 3,812 m.

dancing latin america

Still a lot of indigenous people living here, almost only indigenous people to be correct. I didn’t closely observe the cultural differences between this part of Peru and the one we had just left with the bus. One thing probably was that here they didn’t shoot any longer at festivals, there was still music, of course, a loft of music indeed. Music everywhere as the cycling observer should find out during the exhausting altiplano ride ahead.

With the bulls

Almost all buildings here are made from adobe, but the roofs are a lot more sophisticated than what we had seen at Cordillera Blanca. The atmosphere had changed as well: Warm, totally dry days, non-stop sun from above and a seemingly less clear air. The smell was a different one, especially when coming close to the big lake which slowly passed by to the left.

Adobe houses, Lago Titicaca

Flat roads, often pretty straight for many kilometers. High speed riding compared to what we had experienced the weeks before. I put more pressure into the tires to ride more efficiently. In parts the road got really wonderful with almost no traffic or wide shoulders, but in other parts we also had dangerous sand on the road and simultaneous overtaking maneuvers.

Riding dry countryside

There were plenty of slinging opportunities when stopping for a lunch break at the lake as you can see below. And the skills got more and more sophisticated, but still we missed everything you could miss, sometimes even the water :-)

Nice bike

The weather was nice and my father was cooking, so what better could I do than a small portrait shoot of the recumbent bike in the midday sun, in front of the blue lake and the blue sky.

Look into my eyes

Yes, I think these quad Seoul P4 LED light installation makes the recumbent bike look more cute, like C3PO from Star Wars.

Greenpeace bags detail view

The control center of the recumbent bike of my father. At the back the green GREENPEACE Ortlieb panniers, the mattress you sit on, the tiny little red bell on the left side of the handlebars together with the rear hydraulic rim brake. Now switching over to the right side you can see the Rohloff Speedhub shifter on the top of the handlebar, then the hydraulic front brake with some protection on the bottom.

In the center you find the rear suspension element and below the rack for the little panniers. The black teflon tubes tell the chain where to go and the small black wheel redirects the chain when the suspension element gets compressed.

SMGT portrait

Now here you can see the Forumslader black box with the 6V and 9-20V output, with the black shifter for the light and another tiny shifter for ON/OFF. There’s a steel feather inside the front fork for trouble free suspension, with the drawback of being really heavy and not very sensitive.

Titicaca lake Peru

When they were not dancing you could often see the local people hang around with their sheep or goats making for nice countryside-culture pictures and a lot of communication opportunities. Always very communicative and not letting you go whithout throwing a thousand questions at you :-)

Titicaca campsite

The camping like the people was wonderfully pleasant here. Often the locals told us where we could camp and so we found this nice spot about 30 vertical meters above the road leading along the Lago Titicaca. Nice mornings, nice days, nice evenings and no concerns about bad weather any longer.

Titicaca lake surfing

Turning our heads to the left we could always spot this massive mountain range behind the lake.

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Day 516 to 540 (2008-09-21 to 10-15): Exploring northern and central Peru, from Bańos de Inca to Cordillera Blanca (PART 3 to Chacas)

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Washing touring cyclist cloths in Corongo

After the resting days we rose like a phoenix from the ashes, with new power in the legs and energy reserves filled. But the up and down between the villages continued as it had been the week before and on the opposite site of the major valley we’d been following for 3 days already, we still saw that road that went constantly with a slight gradient upwards, leading to the same end we seemed to be riding towards - that could have saved us probably 2 or 3 days, had we only been riding on the other side!

taped saddle of touring cyclist

In the meantime I had put some brown tape around the gel cover over my saddle that had always moved. And the more tape I put around to fix the cover to the seat the more comfortable the seat got. Had I tried a Brooks saddle before I guess my MTB saddle + gel cover combination would probably come pretty close to the Brooks feeling now, but of course still worlds away from the comfortable seat of the recumbent my father’s enjoying these days.

Portrait touring cyclist, Peru Self-portrait touring cyclist, yellow jacket, blue-white cap, blue sunglasses

Now we cycled towards Sihuas, where the people told us we would have faster internet, decent shops and hostels, so we were optimistic. More and more white peaks appeared especially to our right … we could feel the Cordillera Blanca come closer and closer and just before Sihuas we climbed up this long road towards a 4200 m pass. There we took another hour to climb a small mountain beside the road and in the distance we could see them: the giant, glacier covered, white peaks of the Cordillera Blanca spreading from north to south. A phenomenal view that made us hungry for more; and more should come in the following weeks!

Two touring cyclists gone for a hike, view towards Cordillera Blanca

Farn and mosses on 4200 m altitude in Peru near Sihuas

But only half an hour later after arriving back at the bikes and cooking a short lunch a strong, one hour lasting cold shower took us by surprise. I reacted quickly and put the blue plastic sheet which I’d been using all the time as a tent footprint, put it between the two bikes and we sought protection under it while it rained in pours. But slowly we got colder and colder, so we tried to use sheep and penguin know-how and sat together, minimizing the surface area as far as possible and reducing air circulation around our bodies.
Then we went into the long descend of more than 1000 height meters, arriving in Sihuas just before dusk, but had some problems finding a room because of a health convention in town where not only a lot of doctors came from Huaraz as we’ve been told but also all the people with ills from smaller, surrounding villages arrived in town. Bad timing! When we had found one we just put all our stuff inside and went for the fast internet. But again we got disappointed and the internet cafe didn’t even have internet at all, all the stations standing empty!

Outdoor cooking on the edge, 50m vertical drop

2 boys doing child labour in Peru

Cycling up a long and dry mountain the next day we interrupted and began cooking right beside the steep drop. As we sat there cooking, two small boys arrived and started sieving the sandy soil, probably to get raw material for bricks. Then 20 minutes later we interrupted again and entertained a whole bunch of village children by playing a game in front of their tiny church.

touring cyclists playing together with local children at a small church, Peru by you.

At that time the clouds were so dark and threatening, that we didn’t believe in cycling much further that day. But fortunately the weather changed and after another 2 or 3 hours of climbing uphill we found this nice little single trail leading further up from the pass we had reached towards a hilltop.

campsite close to Alpamayo on 3900 m, tent Hilleberg Nallo 2 GT

Leaving the bikes behind at a place out of sight from the road we took one or two bags each and climbed up another 100 m to the top of the hill. With a magnificent view on some of the glacier covered peaks, we pitched the tent close to a stone ruin, probably an ancient Inca tower at the top and several great stone walls divided in smaller cells around it.

adventurer portrait (yellow jacket) with Alpamayo in the background

adventurer portrait (red jacket) with Alpamayo in the background

This Inca camp was definitely one of the top spots we’ve camped at this tour! The heavy winds just after dusk couldn’t blow us away because I had secured the tent with all available cords and pegs. But it got pretty loud until probably 8 or 9 pm when the winds suddenly stopped.
The following morning I was up half an hour before dawn to get the best light and clearest view on the massive 6000 m mountains in our neighborhood. Even though this was a tough job after a hard day of cycling and a night with bad sleep on 3900 m, it was rewarding and a wonderful early bird feeling.

Alpamayo with sunstreams in the morning sun - incredible atmosphere

Alpamayo ice covered in the warm morning sun

Cordillera Blanca, 6000 m high giant

Walking back to our bikes we met two shepherds with a great amount of sheep, cows and even a few donkeys. One of them had a sling and since I’ve ever wanted to have one of those simple slings I went straight towards him and asked him to demonstrate it and even got the chance to test it myself. What a fascinating simple instrument but also dangerous weapon!

Peru shepherd slinging

People gathering around the strange rider on the even more strange (recumbent) bike in their village center, Peru by you.

(the old woman on the right in the focus:)

Peru woman spinning wool thread

In San Luis we met Italian missionaries again. As Elia from Tauca had told us, they, too, welcomed us with open hands and here we even got some warm pizza in the evening, some cheese filled pancakes and two warm beds for the night.

Peru Andes village San Luis

In this town the ‘italianos’ have not only helped with the construction of the truely massive church but also created another colegio to educate young men, a place for disabled and homeless children and another massive building complex outside town with gardens and schools. They also seemed to have other projects in the area which we didn’t get to see.

Eatint together with colegio estudiantes at a Christian college, Cordillera Blanca, Peru by you.

our room with Christian missionaries in San Luis, near Cordillera Blanca, Peru by you.

Now the next morning we sat out for ‘Punto Olimpico’, the 4890 m high pass to cross the Cordillera Blanca. Actually we didn’t even plan to cross, but only cycle up and the next day down. But first we arrived in Chacas. Here the Italians have built another giant church with rich cravings all over and a massive complex of baroque style buildings. And now we had arrived at the root of this kind of “Italian invasion”: Padre Hugo. This priest had arrived here from a Italian community close to Milan more than 30 years ago and started all the missionary activity in the area. We met him when invited for lunch into one of the buildings and chatted for a while with this charismatic old man of 84 years.

Pater Hugo with little girl in Chacas

meeting friendly Swiss woman

Later when the sky cleared up we started an attempt to get closer to Punto Olimpico. But sadly the outcome was not what we had hoped for but a totally different one, nonetheless a nice and pleasant one: Half an hour of cycling after Chacas dark clouds slowly crawled into our valley and we could smell the rain already before it fell down in heavy showers. Straight from the street we cycled under the veranda of a house nearby the dirt road. Raul’s house. Raul, a man in his 60s and a extremely friendly, helpful and great-souled character.

Peru farmer meeting touring cyclist

With him we chatted the remaining hours of dailight. He showed us his room with a small bed with loads of blankets, his wooden box with all his valuables, his two or three books, including a heavily worked with Bible and another sci-fi book which he believed in. He showed us a post card from some tourists he had met some time in the 1970s, he showed us a puma head probably from Inca times which he had found on one of his fields and he actually even wanted to give it to us.
Then he brought a bag of dust and put a bit of it onto my hand: gold dust. He told us he had 15 kilos of it and it was his only capital. The tiny bag should be another present for us. So it got pretty tricky for us to refuse without disappointing him.

camping under the roof of a adobe house, farmer Raul, Cordillera Blanca, Peru by you.

And because the rain just didn’t stop he offered us to sleep in another, empty room. But we had a better idea: Pitching the tent in the rain we soon realized that this was not the solution: a tiny creek had formed just below our tent, making it impossible to spend a dry night inside. So he showed us a bigger place behind the house where we could put the whole tent under a roof. And this was the best solution and definitely the driest.

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(2008-12-31): Christmas, new laptop and last post this year

This is just a short post to show everbody that even though my health is not the best these days (still suffering under a lightly swollen big toe), I’m nonetheless having a wonderful and exciting time with my family back in Germany.

DPP_0010

happy about the cristmas presents

All of us have survived the Christmas time without too much damage and we’re optimistic and looking forward to the new year 2009.

Livingroom decorated at christmas eve

I’m happy that I can sit here in a warm room on a comfortable chair with the wood oven heating the room and clicking silently and radiating its warm infra red waves in my direction.

feeding the dog

I get good, nutritious, vegetarian food again - too much if I’m honest. I’m enjoying the presence of my kind mother, sister and her boyfriend Andi, I like to play with our dog Sydney and to work on this new T61 lenovo laptop - man what would I have given for this black machine while I’d been dying again and again with the old and totally insufficient iBook 600 MHz in South America.

IMG_2008_12_30_0037

ThinkPad Tseries from lenovo working with on the new laptop

I’m thinking a lot. About the past, the present and the future. I think about work and studies. I’m also thinking about the work on this website and the lectures I’ve planed for 2009 - how do I put my priorities right?

Rohloff Speedhub 500-14 hub gear box with small christmas bear

My friends in Australia will probably celebrate New Year in a few hours already and the whole world will look to the big fireworks at the Sydney harbour bridge. I’m not sure what I’ll be doing, probably enjoy a quiet and secure New Year’s evening, something that doesn’t disturb my tranquilitem animi too much :-)

HAPPY NEW YEAR!

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Day 605 (2008-12-19): Mission accomplished, back home!

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In Rüsselsheim I had an early breakfast together with my friend and host Jürgen, then he suggested that I should prepare a lunch package and gave me a hand full of bananas for the way. The day before he showed me a wonderful route through the hilly area called Odenwald. The route should be as short as possible, contain a minimum of height meters and little traffic of course.

Carfree shed equipped with Leitra velomobile, Birdy folding bike and other bikes by you.

Then I started at 7:30 am, outside the weather was warmer than the days before, maybe 3 to 5 °C, the streets were wet and drizzel fell from the cloudy sky. The yellow light from the street lights reflected in the wet street and also in the low hanging clouds. This caused a feeling well known to the people in the northern and central parts of Europe ,the feeling of having to leave the cozy security of a climatized home.

On the road to Darmstadt there were cars everywhere. The shoulder of the road was often pretty wide so I felt saver than riding really close to the cars. I often switched to the cycle/walking path when available but realized time after time that this alternative was in at least 50% of the cases a mistake, either slowing me down through massive detours or leading to dead ends. Having to cross the street in break of dawn didn’t increase my security in traffic either.

Reaching the city of Darmstadt I reached this important “kilometer stone” of my journey, symbolical for the successful end of the tour: the number 40 000 appeared on my kilometer counter. Mission accomplished! I could have missed the display of this number easily, there was no “magical feeling” or any other kind of signal from either the environment or my body, just the usual feeling of being packed in enough warm layers to master the last stage in winter Germany. My super VDO MC1.0 kilometer counter also didn’t give any signal at all: no beep, no vibration (as other devices would have done these days), no letter of congratulation or nice sentence from the tiny device mounted beside the 26″ rear wheel. Just a normal moment in a middle sized German city in another way too warm winter. Nobody took notice!

kilometer counter displaying the distance cycled in the last 600 days by you.

I was happy. Happy when looking back to this so rich part of my life, happy when looking at where I was now and happy when looking into the future. The smile appeared on my face again and the pedestrians passing often got infected when I greeted them kindly and smiled back.

Continuing towards the natural park Odenwald and slowly gaining in altitude on the way towards Reichelsheim I started to recognize the familarity of the landscape and architecture. These now brown, forest covered hills with the tiny villages, small streams leading downwards from every valley, the farms and wood processing plants, the cellar door sales from local farmers advertised near the road and of course the timber framed white-black houses or houses covered with tiny timber plates. This is the area I had explored for years on the mountainbike and in my early childhood together with my grandparents and relatives. This felt even more like home than the European way of life I already felt very familiar with during the last two weeks.

"Fachwerk" house in the Odenwald, Germany by you.

Cycling down from the “Wegscheide” crossing towards Hirschhorn was nice and fast riding and arriving at the bottom I reached the Neckar river. The water that flows down from somewhere in the Black Forest and passes my home only 50 or 60 km upstream. This navigable river led a lot of my cycling tours, it was always there with the lock in my home town Gundelsheim and sometimes even heavy floods. From now on I knew the route by heart, I’ve probably cycled it at least a dozen times and even more often from Eberbach, the town only 11 km from here.

first time  back at the Neckar river in Hirschhorn by you.

I chose the slower version, following the cycle path, to get to Eberbach and switched over to the B37 road that later changed into the B27 near Mosbach and brought me to Gundelsheim just at dusk time. Nice time for the finisher photo in front of the castle Horneck, after 40 115 km. I took all the time to put the tripod on the cycle path, adjust the camera settings and get the shot. I had the time, I surely was not in a hurry this evening. A lot of cars passed me in their hurry to get from A to B really fast and enrich the lives of their passengers. They are several times as fast as I have been during the last 600 days. What do they gain? What do they lose?

Now I visit this place where I’ve spent so many years of my life, the house where I had grown up in, the street where I had learned cycling and the center of my little world until a few years back. A strange feeling in my breast.

Daniel arriving back in Gundelsheim after a 40.000 km bicycle tour over 5 continents, 20 months by you.

I leave some stuff with my father who had reached home already more than a week ago, the tent and sleeping bag are drying in the cellar now. I shortly check the interior of my youth, my room, the kitchen and living room. A lot of memories are connected to these places, but I don’t feel like I had lost them, I don’t feel like I had missed them.

I start riding again and pedal up that “long” uphill from Neckarmühlbach to Siegelsbach; the high-brightness front LED lights are flickering when I reach the really steep parts with more than 10% gradient. I choose to take the even steeper shortcut towards Siegelsbach … and master it … of course. I am trained and motivated. Cycling through two smaller villages I reach Fürfeld and find the new home of my mother and sister immediately.

20 months no see! I park the bike at a bush beside the house, I ring the bell, I jump behind the bush! My wonderful sister Verena opens the door already expecting me, so I’m not very successful with terrifying her even only a bit! Now she’s falling me in the arms. I’m happy! During the trip there had often been a big distance and times with bad communication when the facilities were just not there. But now I’m back, back in a different NOW, but back with the people I love! I meet Andi, my friend and the longtime boyfriend of my sister, and my mother Martina only 45 minutes later when she comes back from work. And after lifting up the loaded recumbent bicycle many stairs I’m trained and able to pick her up. Even our dog Sydney is happy after shortly “talking turkey” with me :-)

A beautiful day and a condign and nice finish of the adventure.R

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Day 597 to 604 (2008-12-11 to 18): Vlissingen to Amsterdam and return to Germany

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At my arrival in Vlissingen it was already maybe 8 o’clock in the evening. I still had to find Wim’s home and the town was much bigger than I had expected!

Together with velomobile and recumbent rider Wim Harwig along the deichs, wind generators and at M5 workshop by you.

But luckily two young boys helped me to get into the area and then I could use the detailed Google Maps map I had printed at Edwin’s place in Belgium just a few hours before.

With Wim and his lovely wife Marjan I’ve had a really nice time, talking a lot about many things and he even agreed to go for a ride after work with me the following day in really bad, rainy weather, the one where most people prefer to stay under the warm and protecting roof of their home.

Together with velomobile and recumbent rider Wim Harwig along the deichs, wind generators and at M5 workshop by you.

And when I left on the 13th of December for Amsterdam, he had already organized a place to stay for me, the coming night and taken a day off from work to join me for a part of the ride northwards.

Together with velomobile and recumbent rider Wim Harwig along the deichs, wind generators and at M5 workshop by you.

Together with velomobile and recumbent rider Wim Harwig along the deichs, wind generators and at M5 workshop by you.

He took me to the M5 recumbent bicycle workshop where I got to see the elite of Dutch recumbent builders, where some of the fastest, world record breaking bicycled in the world originated!

Together with velomobile and recumbent rider Wim Harwig along the deichs, wind generators and at M5 workshop by you.

Together with velomobile and recumbent rider Wim Harwig along the deichs, wind generators and at M5 workshop by you.

Together with velomobile and recumbent rider Wim Harwig along the deichs, wind generators and at M5 workshop by you.

(German holiday houses at the Dutch coast with windmills in the background)

Unfortunately I didn’t get to see or go for a ride with his beautiful daughters Rea and Jes which have left for half a year to explore Australia and only send him back reports in Dutch from time to time which the father has to translate into English - what a service!

So I want to thank Wim and his wife Marjan a lot for hosting me and making me feel really warm and comfortable in their wooden house in Vlissingen! You are great and Wim, I definitely have to see your cured Quest one day when you’ll have it back again :-)
By the way: Check out Wim’s really nice and charming posting about my visit.

And the next wonderful thing I saw were the cycling paths in Holland - it’s so much safer and pleasant to ride their compared to any other country I’ve cycled so far. Really amazing and even though I’m riding really slow these days because of all the luggage and ‘unaerodynamic’ addons to my recumbent I could progress much faster than what would have been possible back home in Germany (with exception of the stunning work of Ulrich Lamm over at radweit.de of course).

Rotterdam Europort at night by you.

So I reached the harbour, Europort, in the south-west of Rotterdam by dusk and I still had to cycle quite a way to get to Bram a bit north of Rotterdam - that would have been a lot harder to almost impossible without this level of cycling infrastructure.

Cycling with velomobile rider Bram, proud owner of a new Quest, Netherlands near Rotterdam by you.

And Bram greeted me with open arms, even though I arrived pretty late, totoally exhausted. He told me interesting stories from his cycling life and pointed me towards the computer to update my website before I went to bed - without him the last posting would have been the present one!

Cycling with velomobile rider Bram, proud owner of a new Quest, Netherlands near Rotterdam by you.

The following morning after equipping me with a map and instructions he cycled a while with me towards Amstedam in his shining new red Quest velomobile. He even showed me how he’ll have it painted these days and promised to send me a picture of the result - really funny and creative in my eyes! I’ll keep you updated on that.

Cycling Amsterdam, the city of bicycles, in early winter 2008, super friendly and helpful cyclist Sjoukje showing me the right direction by you.

Arriving at the borders of Amsterdam in the early afternoon I got picked up by this RBOB (Real Beauty On a Bike), named Sjoukje. I followed her all the way to the center of the city, getting more and more amazed by the unbelieveable masses of cyclists in the streets and this chaos they create that fascinated me a lot and made me smile all the time, sometimes laughing about funny maneuvres in the streets or just about these immense masses of humans on bikes!

Cycling Amsterdam, the city of bicycles, in early winter 2008 by you.

Cycling Amsterdam, the city of bicycles, in early winter 2008 by you.

Cycling Amsterdam, the city of bicycles, in early winter 2008 by you.

I had only little time left, maybe 3 hours in total, and it cost a me quite an effort to take out the camera in these freezing cold temperatures to get at least a touch of the spirit of Amsterdam, a wonderful city for cyclists in my opinion.

Cycling Amsterdam, the city of bicycles, in early winter 2008 by you.

A meeting with other velomobile riders from Almere didn’t happen because the riding conditions in the evening and night were just too cold for my feet and I couldn’t continue even if I wanted so much. So I had to pitch the tent close to a golf club and some new condos close to the bridge to Almere and just beside this funny sign where 80% of the condos had already been “verkocht”, which ist the translation of the German word “verkauft” but at the same time could be a German word meaning something like “miscooked” :-)

Cycling from Amsterdam to the German border, impressions by you.

So now I headed straight towards the German border, sometimes cycling one to three hours into the night and only stopping when the feet had already gotten way too cold.

Cycling from Amsterdam to the German border, impressions by you.

I had the first rotation of my 20″ front wheel on German ground at a village called “Waldfeucht” north of Aachen near Jülich.

And it really felt strange to be back. The number of cars on the road increased immediately and at the same time the number of cyclist fell to almost zero! I felt lonely on the road. And I didn’t see any beautiful girls on bikes any more which could eventually change my direction and make me forget about the path I wanted to cycle before but only got to smell the congestion clouds of the ugly cars of (maybe some) beautiful girls inside the cars - oh, poor me! I felt miserable, I even thought about making a 180° turn, but this time I simply couldn’t.

And to not mention only the bad things about getting back home, I went to a bakery the very next morning and bought some fresh brezels and 750 g of the tastiest sunflower bread I have had in over a year, the only sunflower bread I have actually had in over a year :-)

From Jülich to Remagen, blitz ice and first Brezel with apple juice by you.

Combined with some (cheap) apple juice bought from a big German supermarket chain I had found a good energy supply for the cold temperatures and sometimes even rain.

And two days ago the temperatures were below zero in the evening and suddenly rain set in, creating a unrideable road surface. I was lucky to find a nice even surface behind a farm shed and pitched up the tent.

From Jülich to Remagen, blitz ice and first Brezel with apple juice by you.

I had a cold, cold night with almost no sleep and everything felt wet or cold, really uncomfortable. And additionally the night was sooooo long. So I was really happy to know that Jürgen Eick in Rüsselsheim would provide me with a warm and dry bed the following night.

Cycling up the Rhine river in winter time by you.

Not only the bed but much more the hours long conversations with Jürgen about all topics cycling, renewable energies, sustainability and even more inspired me to go fast along the Rhine river cycling path. But soon I realized it would be impossible for me to reach Rüsselsheim before midnight and the weather got worse and worse with frightening clouds getting darker the further I cycled south.

So to not break my word I decided to jump on the train. Not an easy decision of course but definitely the right one, as I arrived at about 6 o’clock in the evening, just right for dinner together with Jürgen.

Tea time in Rüsselsheim by you.

He already held a few books ready for me and with every new topic we discussed he put at least a new ‘must read’ book out from his big book shelf onto the table. I could try his new trekking-bike and he demonstrated his etrex VISTA HCx Garming GPS device. I was really happy to visit him the second time on this tour after cycling together with Jürgen and Carl Georg, inventor and builder of the Leitra velomobile, in April 2007 at the very beginning of the journey. Thank you very much, Jürgen!

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Day 516 to 540 (2008-09-21 to 10-15): Exploring northern and central Peru, from Bańos de Inca to Cordillera Blanca (PART 1 to Pallasca)

  • english

Peru, Peru, Peru … we had already been traveling for two weeks in the country but on my map the progress looked like nothing! I felt like we had to advance faster, otherwise we wouldn’t reach our target, Santiago de Chile, in time. During the resting day I had met Soren, Brent and Sven, the three touring cyclists we had left behind in Chachapoyas, again and they told me about their further route: from Cajamarca directly towards the coast, Trujillo, then up the Rio Santa Valley to the Cordillera Blanca. I got doubts about our planned route through the Andes … the coastal route would add more kilometers, less altimeters and bring us to the really high, snow covered mountains a lot faster. What to do now?

market with hundreds of white sombreros, Peru near Cajamarca by you.

We decided to go the harder, less traveled way. Off the beaten track! The progress in kilometers and maybe even height meters per day would go back as would the road quality factor. But as I had mentioned before: When the road quality starts to suffer, the adventure begins.

For lunch we went to a restaurant and brought our own spaghetti and verduras (vegetables) because the “gui” (guinea pig) that lay out in the kitchen didn’t fit our appetite and ideals.

gui (guinea pig) ready for eating in Peru by you.

At the afternoon of the first day on the bike again we came to a street market and had to fight our way through. Because most of the Peruvians in this area are about a head smaller than I am I had a lot of trouble with strings hanging just the right height to avoid me passing without bowing down. And of course we were the highlight for most of the people passing with our two fully loaded bicycles through the market.

the crowd watching the touring cyclists by you.

The showers one evening made it impossible for us to continue - even though both of us do have rain clothes now it’s just not possible to ride uphill in the rain without getting wet under the clothes as well - these are situations when a velomobile (human powered three-wheeled bicycles with a outer fairing like cars have them) like the Leitra, Quest or Alleweder would come quite handy (or a weather protection consisting of the HPVelotechnik Streamer and the AWS (All-Wetter-Schutz) I’ve seen on the spezialradmesse.de website). Well, maybe next time!

Meeting farmer Jesus in Peru by you.

But instead we fled the rain, we hid under the balcony of a farmers adobe brick house. Jesus, the very friendly owner, welcomed us on his veranda and when the rain didn’t stop until dusk he suggested we could sleep on his wooden balcony - what a warmhearted character! We started cooking spaghetti and Jesus was totally impressed by the MSR Whisperlite stove which we unfolded in front of his eyes - this was also the first time we had to repair the stove because the rubber ring inside the pump went off.

preparing dinner at Jesus´ place in Peru by you.

Peruvian adobe house and touring cyclist cooking by you.

Evening sunset in bad weather, a lot of dark clouds but amazing sky and sunlight beams by you.

Unfortunately there was a party going on nearby so his beautiful daughters just checked shortly what’s going on and were far too shy for me to take a proper picture of them. At the party they fired loud shots into the air every 15 minutes … until 2 or 3 in the night, despite all the rain!

Carretera longitudinal de la sierra en Peru, touring cyclists ready for work by you.

On sometimes really tough gravel roads we climbed up towards Cajabamba (yeah, this really sounds pretty much like the Cajamarca we had just left) and arriving in town a man stepped into my way, holding a microphone in my face. His companion put a video camera on his shoulders and totally unprepared they started to interview me - probably a local TV station who had heard from someone that there are two gringos on four wheels in town and one of the bikes looks like a joke on two wheels (for them).

recumbent cyclist together with Peruvian teachers by you.

On the way to Huamachuco the eucalyptus plantations we had gotten used to since Cajamarca now came together with really sandy and in parts un-rideable roads, so not only once we had to get off the bike and push it up the hill, step after step. I got angry when the front wheel started to slide away to the right and I had to invest precious energy to lift it back, but fortunately the sandy parts got less and instead we approached a wonderful lake (laguna) a few kilometers from town.

Peruvian TV interviewing recumbent touring cyclist beside the road by you.

Then maybe 2 km before Huamachuco a 125 ccm motorbike caught up with us and the rider waved his hands heavily for us to stop. Police? Robbers? They didn’t look like any of those. One of them started to hold a microphone into my father’s face and the other (named “Segundo”) again held a video camera on his shoulder. Man, we started to feel like celebrities. Where did all the fame come from? Probably they must have watched Cajabamba television and thought the story would also fit into the RTC Huamachuco channel.

Peruvian TV interviewing recumbent touring cyclist beside the road by you.

My father immediately directed the journalist to my address because of my better Spanish (”less worse” would be a more appropriate term). Anyway, I didn’t feel like giving another interview to the same questions again and instead started to ask the journalist questions. Then I took out my camera and even started to take pictures of them - quite a funny situation that got only topped when my father told the guy with the microphone in the hand that it was not connected to the camera but that the connector was lying in the sand. Quite a welcome change and hilarious story!

camping after sunset close to Huamachuco by you.

Mining country Peru, gold mine near Huamachuco by you.

South of this a little bigger town mining country started. First we cycled along a massive gold mine for at least 2.5 hours uphill. At the corners of the mine watch guards with rifles protected the mine and immediately got nervous when I wanted to take pictures of the massive machinery used to process the gold-containing rocks; I considered it more important not to get in a conflict with a man with a gun in his hand than bringing home pictures of the machinery. Instead I got this nice shot of a tiny dog sleeping where even I would never sleep :-) :

small dog sleeping on a stone - how uncomfortable can you sleep? by you.

coal mining at a small scale in Peru near Huamachuco by you.

With the gold mines came coal mines, but on a totally different scale: long tunnels beside the road, some more than 200 m long, and totally dark colored people brought the millions of years old fossil fuel to daylight. What takes a mining truck one ride takes them probably a month’s work!

putting grain on the ground for drying - small scale, in Peru by you.

bus or touring cyclist? who goes first? by you.

On the way to Pallasca we had to climb descend into a steep and narrow valley more than 1000 m in altitude. All the many s-curves on the way down we had a wonderful view onto the more than 30 s-curves that would lead us up the other side again, we could anticipate all the hard work in the dusty heat of the early afternoon and the liters of sweat that would immediately evaporate right away from the sweaty arms.

Pallasca serpentine turn panorama, 11 recumbent cyclists, Peru by you.

looking down on the s-curves near Pallasca, Peru by you.

(will turn the picture when I´ve installed the Flash plugin :-)

Lucky us that we didn’t encounter a lot of traffic: one truck at the beginning of the climb and a much too fast bus when we had already brought all the hard s-curve work behind us. I was so happy not to sit in the bus at that time, not to let someone else have control not only over his but also over my life and the lives of probably 33 or 44 other passengers! I can go the turns at my own speed, I can put down the foot or easily jump off the bike if it’s getting too hard and I can stop at a steep cliff to slowly and carefully look down if I want to, but I guess I’m not the only one for whom such a ride might yield a nightmarish odyssey.

Touring cyclist photographing adobe parts in Peru near Pallasca by you.

adobe bricks by you.

In Pallasca we stopped for a few hours. We could surf the internet for free in the town hall and the administrator of this little internet library was really fit: He put the German SuSE Linux on all the computers, not only in town but also in neighboring villages as we later found out. Additionally he put a story about the two foreign touring cyclists on the Pallasca website only quarter an hour after our arrival, including 2 or 3 photos he had taken of us and our bikes :-)

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