Project VELAIA

On the VELo cycling for and around gAIA


Tag Archive for 'recumbent'

A really tough day above 4000 m

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Even before we had started the day many trucks carrying heavy loads and producing clouds of dust, had already passed. The tent therefore under a thin and light layer of brown dust. We were lucky that it was not volcanic dust.

At the time we couldn’t really understand where everybody was going.

Guallatire, the tiny little village we were heading for, was obviously not the reason for the rush of lorries, no way. At the police station a friendly officer, a carabiñero, filled the strange black water sack with water, so we could continue. No shops, no new chocolate reserves for us, no reason to stay here any longer … life is so easy.

cyling near volcanoes

Now what better reason could there be to continue than the clouds emitted by the smoking Guallatire volcano (6060 m) right next to you? All the trouble we already had with all the dust lorries, we didn’t want it to get any worse on a much bigger dimension. So, lets go!

cycling near volcanoes

At the bottom of the valley now. Time for a short snack break. The day should get a pretty hard one for both of us. The terrible road, the big trucks, strong sunlight, fully loaded bikes, the altitude and only mediocre food supply … what an outlook. An exhausted body easily spreads this fatigue on and weighs heavily on your mind!

stopping at the water

Trivia start to matter and they’ll keep your mind tied up. That’s pretty hard when you’re alone but it’s a thousand times harder when you’re a group! In these situations silence is golden. Your mental capabilities are not 100%  - far from that - so you have to find a way to control your thoughts. In these situations a bit of intuition can help a lot!

I went to the river, picked up some stones and threw them into the water. Later I slung them into the water and watched them disturb the otherwise harmonious flow of the water.

These interruptions, these turbulences caused by my stones make me think. What are we, I mean we humans? Are we also not just some turbulences in the flow of time on this planet? Some may think they’re great but in the end the stream will compensate the differences. A big manager lying in the flow of time like a giant rock in a dangerous current somewhere in the mountains. When his time as individual is over maybe his ideas will live on for some time, but these times are limited like the lifetime of a rock in a strong current. Tiny little sand particles in the water will hit it and make it to sand itself over time. All the big names of today, for how long will they be known, for how long will people talk about them? So what should we focus on in life? Is it important to pass on your wealth? What about your genes and ideas? Or might it be better to live in a meaningful way, connected to others, living a life of love and peace and unifying with what you’ll be one with anyway when you’ve passed?

lonely touring cyclist

We continued, leaving volcano Guallatire behind. Now slowly we got the idea why the trucks came here. Must be the salt lake Surire because at certain places on the road we found what they had lost, 5 cm big parts of the salt lake. From above 4000 m altitude they were bringing this white crust down to the ocean it seemed.

The police officer in Guallatire replied to my question about what the camiones had laden with an answer I could not understand. But I surely couldn’t make out the word sal in his reply, so I was mislead the first half of the day. Probably he had answered something about the industrial usage of the salt. There’s another word which I’ve just found on the dictionary right now: clorhidrico.

touring the altiplano

Finally we make out the lake of salt directly in front of us. Tiny little things, smaller than ant for sure, are slowly wandering over the surface of the great white plain. That’s the trucks, these tiny little bastards :-)

Due to the heavy winds that came up in the late afternoon we decide to pitch the tent quickly. Cycling is getting too frustrating if you can’t make the progress you’ve planned in your head.

Securing the tent from the furious winds has first priority! Better take 10 minutes longer and have a safe shelter for the night than risking to lose the precious 600 € shelter, the only shelter we had.

cycling Chilean altiplano

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Zurück auf der Hochebene

Endlich hatten wir alle Besorgungen erledigt, die wichtigsten Leute zu Hause in Kenntnis gesetzt über unseren Aufenthaltsort und unser Wohlbefinden, so dass es losgehen konnte.

Wie waren die Aussichten am Morgen des 29.10.? Miserabel, wenn man zeitliche Vorgaben hat. Denn wir hatten noch viel vor, jedoch nur noch etwas mehr als einen Monat Zeit für einige der Höhepunkte, wie die Salzseen und Lagunen-Route.

1000 Meter in vertikaler Richtung standen direkt bevor. Verteilt auf vielleicht 25 bis 30 km. Diese Strecke waren wir ein paar Tage zuvor auf dem Weg hinab nach Putre schon gefahren. Noch einmal und dazu noch viel langsamer und mit weitaus mehr Gewicht in den Taschen wollten wir das nicht, auf keinen Fall!

hitchhiking with bikes

Ohne Anwendung irgendwelcher Überredungskünste überzeugten wir einander also davon, nach 100 zurückgelegten Höhenmetern, per Anhalter weiterzufahren. Und welch ein Glück: Gleich der erste Laster stoppte für uns, wir hievten zusammen die voll beladenen Tourenräder hoch. Hinten auf der Ladefläche fehlten einige Abtrenn-Klappen, so dass wir die Räder zur Sicherheit immer festhielten.

Denn was uns bevorstand, war eine spritzige Fahrt auf kurvenreicher Asphaltstraße, danach ein kurzer Abstecher zu einem heißen Bad, wo die Arbeiter etwas zu besprechen hatten. Nach insgesamt 600 bis 700 gewonnenen Höhenmetern setzte man uns neben einem Militärcamp ab.

hitchhiking on back of truck

Ich glaube, dass dies das erste Mal war, dass ich zusammen mit meinem Vater per Anhalter gefahren bin … und dann gleich so unkonventionell und wie ich eingestehen muss ziemlich gefährlich.

Wir dankten den freundlichen Chilenen und verabschiedeten uns sogleich. Weitere 250 Meter mussten wir hoch, jetzt wieder ganz alleine. Gefährliche Gefährten schleppten sich neben uns den Pass hinauf: Voll be- und oft auch überladene Lastwagen mit Gütern für Bolivien und Argentinien. Einige mit alten chilenischen Autos für die Städte Boliviens, andere gewährten keine Einsicht, sondern verdeckten den Blick auf ihre Güter durch Planen.

Zweimal auf nur wenigen Kilometern kam es zu grob fahrlässigen Überholmanövern, einmal musste ich notgedrungen die Straße verlassen um nicht tuschiert zu werden.

straight to PUTRE

Endlich hatten wir ohne Schaden zu nehmen die Abzweigung nach Guallatire (Gualjatire gesprochen) und zum Salar de Surire (Salzsee Surire) erreicht. Von nun an weiter auf Schotter, mehr Abenteuer und weniger Verkehr.

Doch mit einer Sache hatten wir beim Stricken dieser süßen Gedanken in unseren Köpfen nicht gerechnet: Nämlich, dass die Chilenen am Salzsee unermüdlich Rohstoffe abbauen würden und zwar im industriellen Maßstab. Infolgedessen hatten wir alle 10 Minuten  Konfrontationen mit rasenden Monstern, die hinter sich eine Wolke aus Staub herzogen wie ein brennendes Auto in Hollywood-Streifen eine Fahne aus Feuer und Staub hinter sich herzieht. Eingestaubt wurden wir heute jedoch zum Glück nur wenig, denn Äolus ließ die Winde aus westlicher Richtung wehen - wir waren am rechten Rand der Schotterpiste nach Süden unterwegs.

volcanoe

Diesen weiß gepuderten Vulkan hatten wir immer zur Linken. Während wir von Anstrengung und Höhe erschöpft keuchten emittierte er ihn einer sagenhaften Ruhe immer diese Rauchfahnen. Doch recht trauen konnten wir der zahmen Pafferei nicht wirklich … lieber ein bisschen schneller fahren.

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To the border of the highplateau

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Early morning, still above 4000 m of altitude. This is when we think today will get an easy day. Only downhill, down to 3500 m, to the town of Putre

morning campsite

The very sandy ground brought us a good nights sleep. We later met the 3 French again who had tried to sleep up here, too, but didn’t succeed and had to go down to Putre and get a hotel there. We on the other hand were used to this high altitudes as we’ve been cycling above 3800 m since Lago Titicaca.

indybay.org sticker on bike

I was in a nice photo shooting mood, so I went around the campsite and took these pictures. Up here on the altiplano there’s basically no media, no trouble, just a few people and a few more animals living mostly in peace, not like in the latest James Bond movie with all the violence.

straight to PUTRE

Straight down towards Putre. That’s what this sign suggests, when the road in front of us is diving down into the valley. But fast we couldn’t go because of a steady strong headwind blowing towards us from the coast. What we had hoped that it would get an easy ride took us hours!

chic Ciber COFFEE

The internet or ciber coffee in putre (note, coffee, not cafe!). The signs are actually made from wood, not just cheap painting. But they should have rather put some more time and money into the hardware as I got so upset with the slow computers that I didn’t go there again the second day and especially not the third day, when we had found out that the public library has much faster computers and internet and even for free!

Yes, we have bread

We were forced to spend some time there because the bank was closed over the weekend. We had arrived on a Saturday. All the hostels and hotels were booked out. Strange, no tourist season.

Elections, that’s what brought the people here from very remote areas. So on Sunday the roads were crowded with indigenous people and also more Western looking locals.

HAY PAN” indicated that they had bread. Sometimes self made but also very often only bought from a bigger bakery.

bikes parked in little hostel

In our hostel, which we had found after a 3/4 hour search we could negociate a good price and had some friendly company from many French, Swiss and even Ozzies and Kiwis. But nobody stayed for the same period as we did. And everyone was surprised that we had just been there to relax, not to explore the area with salt lakes, volcanoes and national parks.

We were surprised by the fast speed with which the other travelers went out to explore and came back from exploration. Too fast for us. We want to experience the size of a big salt lake by riding slowly past it. How big appears a 40 km wide area covered with NaCl for you if you’re passing at 80 km/h. Can you really appreciate it?

Info Putre: Wikipedia (english) (deutsch)

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Crowded Parinacota

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We wanted to ride to the town of Parinacota today. 50 to 70 kilometer probably. There we would have internet, shops and even ATMs we had been told. Nice outlook.

Chile altiplano election

Altiplano population in Chile

Nice gravel roads on the way. Mostly police traffic checking the nearby border for illegal immirgants from poor Bolivia.

cyclist facing enemy

Facing the enemy

Once they offered us a ride not knowing that we had come here especially to ride. And how could one jump on the back of  a pick-up truck in this amazing atmosphere? The volcanoes always to our left, the dusty road under our tires. A dream for every adventure touring cyclist!

cycling under giants

Cycling beside volcanoes

We arrive in Parinacota. Parinacota is empty! No shops, no people. I make out a bus with about 14 computer terminals … to develope the area. But probably everyone’s gone. We’re hungry, we’re exhausted and disappointed. We made a mistake: Having a strict goal for the day and looking forward to it too much.

Until three French scientists who explore the area, pick us up we prepare a soup with spaghetti. They’re really helpful, friendly and entertaining chaps and take us to the next truck-stop where we can change US $ to the local currency, Chilean Pesos, and get some energy, pure (food) and solved (juices and soda).

French meteorologists

Funny French meteorologists

We then continue due to the high price and low quality of the habitacion and pitch our tent 100 m away from the road, on the southern side. The GPS map at the end of the article shows the spot exactly. Again Google has made really high resolution data available, really nice.

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Bolivia to Chile border

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Notice: There are high resolution sattelite data available from Google Maps, so click the link title of this article and scroll to the end of it to see the included Google Maps applet. You can zoom in and see the houses, trails, river crossings and a lot more. Check out the border barracks of Visviri for example.

The clouds of the previous evening had been gone in the morning. We put the sleeping bags in their little protection and compression sacks, rolled the Thermarests and put the tent in it’s green bag to protect it from the dust of the road and the hardships of the day.

After 1.5 hours of cycling we reached the town of Charaña (pronounced charanya with the “a” pronounced like the ‘oo’ in blood). A lot more had we expected. At least we found a somewhat reasonable small shop with hundreds of different items and easily spent our last money there, about 20 €. Probably the biggest deal for the young woman owner of the show with her small, 1 year old boy.

We tried to get on the Internet but asked the owner of this small, 3 computer cybercafe for the speed and whether it’d make more sense to postpone the visit to the other world, to the world of NOW. He explained we should get NOW later on in Chile. That saved us a lot of headaches I guess.

Bolivia town atmosphere altiplano

So now we’re at the border, ready to get a 90 days tourist visa for Chile and have our luggage checked to protect the country from diseases. Diseases for their vulnerable mono culture growing food industry that is. All the cyclist coming here know that the Chileans don’t want that stuff, so we, too, had been prepared and didn’t buy any fresh fruit or vegetables.

EVITE MULTAS, Chile welcome

In the early afternoon we started following road I-123 down south. The road follows the Chile-Bolivia border pretty close as you can see if you zoom in on the map. The Chileans were just upgrading the road to a new level and I guess in a year’s time it’ll be sealed. That was the first part only, then it got worse, in parts really sandy.

evening rider

The colors from the evening sun got softer and softer and put the area into a nice yellow-orangish mood. With a wonderful view onto distant 6,348 m high Parinacota volcano we continued cycling. But the winds got harder, so hard actually that occasionally we had a really hard time staying on our bikes!

We decided to pitch the tent at a place where they were just upgrading the road. We put it right behind some little hills for wind protection. But then the wind changed direction and we had already put big stones on the leashes. The tent got deformed heavily while we were packing our stuff inside. The bikes got fixed to the head and foot of the tent both for the protection of the tent and bicycles.

volcano campsite (Parinacota)

We had dinner inside and a small dessert: Chocolate. The latter one we had every evening these days, not very healthy but calories. It came in the same silver foil as the chocolate in Peru, probably imported. We had bought a whole box for 4€ containing about 20 units. To get it the previous day we had to bargain with the woman. First she didn’t want to sell it to us at all, but then she realized she could make profit from the sale :-)

While we had dinner the lamas went on their way home to the paddock. I didn’t see anyone bringing them there, so I guess for them it’s a routine and they profit from the paddock because the stone walls give them protection from the cold winds and by sitting side by side they won’t get cold at night.

lamas going home @ evening

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Schöne Pfade und seltsame Gesteinsformationen

Als die Nacht gut überstanden war, gab es erst einmal Frühstück. Dabei beobachteten wir ein für mich sehr erfreuliches Phänomen: Jede 2 Minute radelte ein Kind auf Fahrrad ganz in der Nähe vorbei. Alle auf dem dünnen Pfad neben der Straße in Richtung nächste Ortschaft zur Schule.
rock formations

Weiße Felsformationen stechen hervor

Wir hatten uns in dieser Ortschaft eingedeckt, da wir nicht wussten, wie weit es zur darauffolgenden sein würde - und sicher ist sicher! Noch eine kühle, bolivianische Cola für umgerechnet 20 Euro Cent getrunken, konnte es weitergehen. So sahen die Wege aus, wenn wir nicht die viel zu grob geschotterte “Straße” fuhren.

Bolivia: trail mania

Viel Spaß auf engen Pfaden

Und hier nun die Verpflegung Station am Mittag: Vier Frauen aus einem ansonsten ausgestorben wirkenden Dorf, die mit ein paar Styropor-Behältern und jeder Menge isolierenden Wolltüchern aus Eigenproduktion die Vorbeireisenden mit Nahrung versorgten. Das heißt, viel Verkehr gab es hier nicht wirklich. Das Geschäft lief gut, wenn alle 10 Minuten einmal ein LKW seine Staubwolke mit sich brachte und anhielt.

Bolivia women

Imbiss Stand an der Hauptstraße

Denn das Klima war trocken, Sonnenschein, dünne Luft. Da zog jedes größere motorisierte Vehikel seine Staubwolke hinter sich her. Wir Radler durften entweder Staub inhalieren oder mussten kurzzeitig anhalten … denn Luft anhalten und zugleich weiterfahren, daran war in diesen Höhen wahrlich nicht zu denken!

stone church

Steinerne Dorfkirche auf Bolivianisch

Plötzlich fanden wir uns in einer sehr skurrilen Felslandschaft wider, die sich über mehrere Kilometer unserer Fahrstrecke hinzog. Nur für die Straße wurde richtig Platz gemacht, selbst wenn sie sich noch immer in Schlangen-Kurven durch die Felslandschaft zog. Prima Klettermöglichkeiten für Entdecker aller Couleur gab es hier und ich nahm mir natürlich alle Zeit dafür - eine willkommene Abwechslung zu den langen Stunden im Sattel.

recumbent in the rocks

Skurile Felslandschaft am Abend

Das Zelt wurde mit prima Ausblick, windgeschützt und mit Sichtschutz vor den Blicken der ab und an Vorbeifahrenden errichtet, direkt neben einem Wegstück der ehemaligen Straße. Mit fast allen verfügbaren Spannseilen gesichert und “ruhig gestellt”.

camp in the rocks

Bei der alltäglichen Camping-Routine

Danach hieß es nur noch Kalorien bunkern und die überwältigende Landschaft und Atmosphäre auf sich einwirken lassen:

sun rays and dark clouds

Der Blick zum Rande der Hochebene

camp in the rocks

Camp inmitten der Felsen

Beim Nachverfolgen der Route bin ich diesmal auf einige Probleme gestoßen. Die Karten-Kacheln bei Google Maps waren leider nicht höher aufgelöst, so konnte ich den Weg nicht gut verfolgen. Ich hoffe, dass ich im nächsten Beitrag wieder Witterung bekomme. Bis dann.

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